Pre-Owned Designer Jewelry: Hallmarks, Ring Sizes and What to Check
Pre-owned jewelry from houses such as Cartier, Tiffany & Co., Bvlgari and Van Cleef & Arpels lets you buy timeless pieces for less than the boutique price. Gold, platinum and silver do not wear out, so a well-kept piece can look beautiful for decades. This guide explains the markings and sizes you will see in our listings.
Reading hallmarks
Precious metal is stamped with its purity. You will often see purity markings like these next to the brand's own stamps.
| Marking | Meaning |
|---|---|
| K18 or 750 | 18-carat gold (75% gold) |
| K14 or 585 | 14-carat gold (58.5% gold) |
| Pt950 / Pt900 | Platinum (95% / 90% platinum) |
| 925 or SV925 | Sterling silver (92.5% silver) |
Branded pieces usually also carry the brand signature, and many Cartier pieces have a serial number. The exact markings differ per brand and period.
Ring sizes: how to convert
Some rings are listed in the Asian size scale, which differs from European sizes. As a rule of thumb, add about 40 to an Asian size to get the European size, which equals the inner circumference in millimetres. For example, Asian size 12 is roughly European size 52. Always check the size and measurements in the product details, and measure a ring that fits you well before you order.
What to check on pre-owned jewelry
- Surface scratches: normal on gold and platinum that has been worn. They can often be polished away by a jeweller.
- Clasps and links on necklaces and bracelets: they should close securely.
- Stones: check that settings are tight and stones are complete.
- Box and papers: nice to have, but not a guarantee of authenticity on their own.
Every piece has a condition rank and close-up photos, and is checked for authenticity before it is listed.
The icons of each house
- Cartier: the Love bracelet and ring, the Juste un Clou nail design and the three-band Trinity ring.
- Tiffany & Co.: Return to Tiffany, the Tiffany T collection and the organic designs of Elsa Peretti. Read our Tiffany guide.
- Bvlgari: the spiral B.zero1 ring and the Serpenti snake motif. See our Bvlgari guide.
- Van Cleef & Arpels: the clover-shaped Alhambra motif, worn as a pendant, bracelet or earrings.
Yellow, white or rose gold?
Gold comes in several colours, depending on the metals it is mixed with. Yellow gold is warm and classic. White gold is often rhodium-plated for a bright finish; over time that layer can wear thin and can be renewed by a jeweller. Rose gold gets its soft pink tone from copper. All three are equally valuable at the same carat. Platinum is naturally white, heavier and very durable. Choose the colour that matches the jewelry or watch you already wear.
Caring for pre-owned jewelry
- Take off rings and bracelets when exercising, cleaning or applying hand cream.
- Store each piece separately, so harder stones do not scratch softer metals.
- Clean gold and platinum with lukewarm water, a drop of mild soap and a soft brush. Silver can be polished with a special silver cloth.
- Have clasps and stone settings checked every now and then by a jeweller.
Buying designer jewelry as a gift
Not sure of someone's ring size? A necklace, pendant or earrings are a safer choice. For bracelets, check the inner length or diameter on the product page. Many pieces from Tiffany & Co. and Cartier are timeless and suit almost any style, which makes them a favourite gift. Browse all designer jewelry.
Shop pre-owned designer jewelry
Browse Cartier, Tiffany & Co., Bvlgari and Van Cleef & Arpels, or shop by type: rings, necklaces, bracelets and earrings.
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